APS Giyim, one of Türkiye's important trouser manufacturers serving world-renowned brands, chose a local brand, Malkan Machinery, as its solution partner in the investments it made in 2013.

The ironing group and trouser ironing presses at the company's production plant in Merzifon, Amasya were supplied by Malkan Machinery. This choice was part of a transformation in which local manufacturing replaced imported presses.

We reviewed the company's recent work with Sener Sen, a mechanical engineer who serves as Maintenance and Technical Manager at APS Giyim's Merzifon plant. The interview was published in May 2014; the figures and views reflect the situation at that date.

In the technical sections of the article, we cover the basic subjects of trouser ironing presses: the trouser ironing process, the interlining press group, high-capacity line planning and energy efficiency. Manufacturers planning a similar investment can thus adapt the APS Giyim experience to their own plants.

1. THE READY-TO-WEAR SECTOR THROUGH A MECHANICAL ENGINEER'S EYES

A view from APS Giyim's trouser ironing department.

Mr Sener Sen, could you briefly introduce yourself?

“I was born in Amasya in 1979; I am a mechanical engineer and a father of two. APS has been in the sector for 42 years and I for 10. I opened my eyes to the profession in the ready-to-wear sector and I still continue in it.”

“Because the sector is exciting and requires constant research, I could not break away from it.”

How did you get to know the apparel and ready-to-wear sector?

“My profession is mechanical engineering; I started during the company's construction and I still continue. After graduating I had other plans and worked in a different sector for about two years.”

“After I started working in this sector, as I said before, the constant excitement and innovation attached me to it even more. I still continue with the same excitement and desire as on the first day.”

The fact that Sener Sen took part in the plant from the construction phase shows that a maintenance and technical service view was decisive in machine selection.

For a maintenance manager, a press is evaluated by failure frequency, access to spare parts, service speed and energy consumption. When trouser ironing presses are also selected by these criteria, the investment serves for many years without problems.

2. FROM 30 SQUARE METERS TO 41,000 SQUARE METERS: APS GIYIM

What can you say about APS Giyim's development since its founding?

“APS started from a small shop of 30 m². Today, with its factory of 10,000 m² in Istanbul and 22,000 m² indoor and 19,000 m² outdoor in Merzifon, a total of 41,000 m², it continues production as one of the exemplary establishments of the sector.”

“It has become an exemplary company in the sector with its experienced staff that closely follows technological developments and is open to innovation. Today it is among the suppliers of important brands in the USA and Europe.”

Producing for brands in the USA and Europe means working with strict quality criteria. The dimensional tolerance of the trousers, the straightness of the leg crease and the absence of shine or marks on the surface are evaluated directly in pre-shipment inspections.

For this reason, for an export-oriented trouser manufacturer, trouser ironing presses are the last link of quality assurance.

3. 2013 INVESTMENTS: THE IRONING AND INTERLINING PRESS GROUP

What was the situation of the sector and your company in 2013? Could you tell us a little about your investments?

“2013 was a busy year for our company; I think it also went well for the sector. Our investments continue so that we can do our work with quality and speed.”

“In 2013 we made investments in a tracking system that increases production and efficiency, an automatic machine group, an ironing group and an interlining press group.”

This investment list shows that efficiency in trouser production consists of interlinked links. The tracking system makes bottlenecks visible, the automatic machine group increases repeatability in sewing, and the ironing and interlining press groups determine the form and durability of the product.

Trouser ironing presses are the point in this chain where the speed gained in sewing turns into quality.

4. MAINTENANCE AND ENERGY CRITERIA IN MACHINE SELECTION

What do you pay attention to when investing in your machine park? What are the most important factors affecting your choice of new equipment?

“We sew trousers, and our capacity at our Merzifon plants is currently 6,000 trousers a day. We aim to increase our capacity gradually.”

“In machine purchases we have to choose machines that will not cause us problems, that suit our work and that will not create service and spare part trouble. Besides these points, in choosing a new machine we look at energy consumption, and we decide by getting information from people who use the machine in the market.”

These criteria apply directly to the selection of trouser ironing presses as well. Quick access to service and spare parts shortens downtime, while energy consumption determines the operating cost over the life of the trouser ironing presses. Getting information from reference users also reveals day-to-day experience that does not appear in the technical specification.

When evaluating energy consumption, the whole plant is considered, not only the label values of the trouser ironing presses. The steam source, line length, insulation and condensate management are the main factors that determine the real consumption of the press. For this reason, a correct comparison can be made when machine selection and utility planning are handled together.

5. LOCAL PREFERENCE IN THE IRONING DEPARTMENT AND MALKAN MACHINERY

A press application in the trouser ironing department.

What do you think about preferring local brands in your purchases for the ironing department? Are you satisfied with Malkan Machinery?

“We bought our sewing machines from abroad. But we bought all our irons and the presses we bought afterwards from Malkan Machinery; Malkan Machinery has invested a great deal for this work.”

According to Sener Sen, presses were bought from abroad until 5-10 years before the interview and are now supplied by Malkan Machinery:

“It is both a source of pride that the presses of a local company are in our factory, and it pleases us that our money goes to companies that make locally manufactured machines.”

“By giving the foreign currency we earn through exports to Malkan Machinery instead of imported brands, we keep resources in the country. In this way we also contribute to supporting the domestic machinery industry in terms of R&D and capacity.”

“We are very satisfied with Malkan Machinery irons and presses. Malkan Machinery is a reliable address for solution partnership not only with its product quality but also with its after-sales support services and complete turnkey project work. For this reason we see that we made an extremely well-judged decision.”

Sener Sen's assessment highlights two concrete gains that local manufacturing brings to an investment in trouser ironing presses: quick access to service and spare parts, and getting buck and project support from the same manufacturer.

In a turnkey project approach, presses, tables and utilities are planned from a single source, which reduces the risk of incompatibility between equipment and infrastructure.

6. 2014 EXPECTATIONS: THE GROWTH TARGET

What were your expectations and forecasts for the sector and your company in 2014?

“Our company's target in 2014 is growth; all items in our budgets were prepared according to growth. It will especially relieve our sector if exchange rates hold their current levels or even rise somewhat above the 2013 average.”

“The work of companies like us, side by side with local machinery suppliers like Malkan Machinery to improve quality and performance, will also make a positive contribution to our country's industry.”

These targets and forecasts belong to 2014. For a trouser manufacturer aiming at growth, building trouser ironing presses and their infrastructure ready for capacity increase makes later investments easier. As the capacity target becomes clearer, the number of stations, steam demand and layout are updated accordingly.

7. Trouser Ironing Presses and the Trouser Ironing Process

Ironing and press work on the trouser production line.

In trouser production, ironing is handled in two main stages: intermediate pressing and final pressing. In intermediate pressing, the side seam, crotch seam and inseam allowances are opened, and the pocket, flap and waistband pieces are prepared for the next sewing step. These steps form the basis of the final pressing done with trouser ironing presses.

Intermediate pressing stations are usually located inside the sewing line, right after the relevant sewing step. In this way the opened seam allowance stays in the right place for the next seam and the product is not carried unnecessarily along the line.

In final pressing, trouser ironing presses process the waist and hip area, the leg and the crease at separate stations. Form-type presses used for the waist and hip shape the product on a three-dimensional form with steam and vacuum, while leg presses ensure that the crease forms as a single, straight and permanent line.

Choosing bucks for jacket pressing is a separate subject. Double creases, off-center creases and shine are among the most frequent quality complaints.

While trouser ironing presses work, steam softens the fibers, pressure gives the form, and vacuum fixes the form by drawing out moisture and heat.

Times are adjusted according to the fiber content, weight and elastane ratio of the fabric; values vary by manufacturer and model. Programmed trouser ironing presses keep these times recorded for each product and so give repeatable results.

8. QUALITY CONTROL IN INTERLINING FUSING PRESSES

Interlining fusing gives body and durability to areas of the trousers such as the waistband, flap and pocket opening.

The thermoplastic adhesive of the interlining melts under a certain temperature, pressure and time and bonds to the fabric; the balance of these three variables determines the quality of the bond. Continuous-type fusing presses pass the pieces over a belt through a heating and pressure zone and suit high-volume production.

Insufficient temperature or time leads to weak adhesion and bubbling after washing. Excessive heat, on the other hand, can cause the adhesive to bleed through to the fabric surface, stiffening and color change. For this reason, the values recommended by the interlining manufacturer are taken as a starting point and verified with trial pieces.

Peel strength, appearance after washing or dry cleaning and dimensional change are evaluated in inspection. Regular measurement of the press surface temperature and belt cleaning keep quality constant. A small deviation in the interlining step shows up as waviness in the final pressing done with trouser ironing presses.

9. LINE PLANNING FOR 6,000 TROUSERS A DAY

The target capacity is the first piece of data that determines the number of stations needed for trouser ironing presses.

In an example calculation, an output of 6,000 units a day means one pair of trousers about every 5.4 seconds in a single nine-hour shift. The number of trouser ironing presses needed is found by dividing each station's processing time per product by this pace.

For example, if the processing time per product at a station is 30 seconds, about six parallel stations are needed to match this pace.

In a real calculation, the operator's loading time, intermediate stock, efficiency losses and maintenance stops are also taken into account. In this way no bottleneck forms on the trouser ironing presses line and the sewing output does not wait at pressing.

In the layout, intermediate pressing points are placed inside the sewing line, and final pressing between the sewing exit and quality control.

Product flow is set up in one direction; returns and cross-handling cause time loss and re-wrinkling. If a capacity increase is planned, space and utility connections for new trouser ironing presses are left in the layout in advance.

10. ENERGY EFFICIENCY IN THE IRONING DEPARTMENT

Energy consumption is among APS Giyim's criteria in machine selection. In the ironing department, most of the energy is spent on steam production; for this reason efficiency starts at the steam source.

When the boiler or steam generator is sized to suit the total consumption of the trouser ironing presses and tables, unnecessary operation and losses are reduced. The safe operation of steam boilers is also part of this planning.

Insulating steam lines and valves lowers heat loss and the amount of condensate formed in the line.

Regular checks of steam traps prevent steam leaks and make sure dry steam reaches the trouser ironing presses; in suitable plants, returning condensate to the boiler saves water and fuel. Fixing compressed air leaks is also an effective measure that is often overlooked.

At the level of the trouser ironing presses, putting unused stations on standby and engaging steam and vacuum only during the cycle reduces consumption. Programmed trouser ironing presses prevent longer-than-needed steam and vacuum use by adjusting times to the product. Monitoring energy consumption together with maintenance records makes improvement opportunities visible.

11. COMMON DEFECTS IN TROUSER PRESSING AND THEIR SOLUTIONS

A double crease results from placing the leg incorrectly in the press or from not completely removing the crease formed in the previous pressing.

When the operator places the leg by lining up the inner and outer seams, the crease forms as a single line. If necessary, the previous crease is opened with steam and the trousers are pressed again.

An off-center crease is the drift of the crease away from the front center along the leg, and it mostly comes from a cutting, sewing or placement error.

Trouser ironing presses cannot hide this error; on the contrary, they make it visible. For this reason, when a crease defect is seen, the cutting and sewing steps are also checked before pressing.

Shine forms especially on dark-colored and synthetic fabrics with high temperature or too much pressure. Pressure and time are lowered to suit the fabric, and a worn covering is renewed. Marks of the pocket bag and belt seam showing through at the waist are prevented in a similar way with pressure adjustment and a suitable covering.

In trousers containing elastane, excessive heat can permanently reduce the elasticity of the fabric and cause waviness. For these fabrics, separate programs working at low temperature and short steam time are defined. Dimensional checks after pressing give early warning of whether the fabric is shrinking with heat.

12. PROGRAM SETTINGS BY FABRIC TYPE

Fabrics pressed on trouser ironing presses react differently to heat, moisture and pressure. Wool and wool-blend fabrics take shape easily with steam and hold the crease well; cotton gabardine and linen may need more moisture and a longer vacuum time. On polyester-heavy fabrics the temperature is kept limited, because high heat can cause shine and permanent marks.

Programmed trouser ironing presses manage these differences by storing a separate recipe for each fabric group. When a new fabric arrives, steam, pressure and vacuum times are tried on sample pieces; crease durability, shine and dimensional change are checked. Approved values are recorded and the same program is used throughout production.

In a plant using trouser ironing presses for many brands and models, this discipline matters even more. Using a verified program for each model gives consistent quality regardless of shift and operator. In this way, at customer inspections the same model is presented with the same look in every batch.

13. MAINTENANCE, SPARE PARTS AND SERVICE PLANNING

APS Giyim's emphasis on service and spare parts in machine selection reflects the reality of high-capacity production.

On a line making thousands of trousers a day, the stoppage of a single press can lead to product from sewing piling up at pressing and the shipment plan slipping. For this reason maintenance is done according to a plan, not after a failure occurs.

Daily checks of the trouser ironing presses review steam and air leaks, the buck covering and vacuum suction. Periodic maintenance checks steam traps, filters, valves, cylinders and sealing elements, and the temperature of heated surfaces is measured and compared with the program. Keeping frequently replaced parts in stock minimizes downtime.

Working with a local manufacturer makes this planning easier. Spare part lead time is shorter, the technical team can reach the plant quickly, and requests such as buck changes are met by the same manufacturer. The long service life of an investment in trouser ironing presses is directly related to this service infrastructure.

14. OPERATOR TRAINING AND OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY

In a high-tempo ironing department, quality is carried by the operator's hands. Placing the leg correctly, selecting the right program and noticing a defect at once directly determine the result of every product. For this reason, training is given to operators on their own products during commissioning.

Standard work instructions define the placement method, program number and control points at each station. Newly joined operators become productive in a shorter time with these instructions, and the difference in practice between shifts is reduced. Regular refresher training corrects habit errors that build up over time.

Occupational safety is an integral part of training. Because of hot surfaces, steam and moving bucks on trouser ironing presses, guards and, where fitted, safety devices such as two-hand control must never be disabled under any circumstances. The use of personal protective equipment and cutting off energy sources during maintenance are also clearly included in the instructions.

15. CONCLUSION

APS Giyim replaced imported presses with local production by choosing Malkan Machinery for its ironing and press group in its 2013 investments.

At the Merzifon plant with a capacity of 6,000 trousers a day, trouser ironing presses were evaluated by the criteria of quality, service, spare parts and energy. In Sener Sen's words, this was an extremely well-judged decision.

In high-capacity trouser production, the ironing department keeps its efficiency with the right number of stations, a well-built interlining step, efficient steam infrastructure and programmed trouser ironing presses. With the experience it has accumulated since 1971 and an export network reaching 95 countries, Malkan Machinery stands beside manufacturers who build this balance.

Today, Malkan Machinery also works in a strategic partnership with Indupress in press technology. Developments in garment production automation also shape how investments in pressing departments are planned. For the company's current strategy, you can browse the Malkan Vision 2025-2026 page.

16. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

In which areas are trouser ironing presses used? In final pressing, the waist and hip area and the leg and crease are processed at separate stations. In intermediate pressing, seam allowances are opened and details such as the pocket and flap are prepared.

Which variables matter in interlining fusing? Temperature, pressure and time are decisive. The values recommended by the interlining manufacturer are the starting point; peel strength and appearance are checked with trial pieces.

How is the number of trouser ironing presses calculated from daily capacity? The daily working time is divided by the target quantity to find the pace. Dividing the processing time at a station by this pace gives the number of parallel presses needed.

How is energy saved in the ironing department? With a correctly sized steam source, insulated lines, controlled steam traps and fixed air leaks. Programs of trouser ironing presses adjusted to the product also prevent unnecessary steam and vacuum use.

Why does a double crease occur in trousers? It occurs when the leg is placed incorrectly in the press or the previous crease is not completely removed. Correct placement, a suitable buck and programmed trouser ironing presses prevent this defect.

What maintenance do trouser ironing presses need? Daily checks cover steam and air leaks, the buck covering and vacuum suction. Steam traps, filters, valves and cylinders are reviewed in periodic maintenance, and frequently replaced parts are kept in stock.

Why is ironing operator training important? Placement, program selection and early detection of defects depend on the operator. Standard work instructions and training given on the product provide consistent quality and safe operation across shifts.