Klasmen Tekstil, which makes well-known men's suit and costume brands for the Laleli market, opened its own production plant in early 2014. At the center of the move from subcontracted to own production was the pressing department, which decides the final look of the product. The company chose Malkan Machinery as its solution partner for this department.

We talked with a Klasmen Tekstil representative about the company's journey from its founding to the new plant, the principles it follows in machinery investment and its choices in suit ironing. The interview was published in July 2014; the views reflect the situation at that date.

In the technical sections of the article, we cover the details of the suit ironing process: the stations of final jacket pressing, buck and form compatibility, programming, team and utilities. Manufacturers planning a pressing investment can thus adapt the experience in the interview to their own plants.

1. FROM NIZIP, GAZIANTEP TO ISTANBUL: THE STORY OF KLASMEN TEKSTIL

A view from Klasmen Tekstil's new production plant.

Could you tell us briefly about yourselves?

“We are from Nizip, Gaziantep; there are nine siblings, five of them male. We came to Istanbul in 1989. We worked in many different jobs, but in the end we decided to build a career in the apparel and ready-to-wear sector and to found our own business.”

“Today we feel the pride of seeing how right that decision was and of having succeeded.”

How did you get to know apparel and ready-to-wear, one of the locomotive sectors of our country?

“When we first came to Istanbul in 1989, we started at a company working on women's outerwear. We were producing under the Istanbul Polony brand in the Laleli market and working for the Polish market. Very quickly I learned the trade, and even Polish because of the foreign market we worked for.”

“However, by 1992, both for family reasons and because of the circumstances around us, we had to continue our working life in other sectors. After this period of more than ten years, we returned to the sector in 2004, this time in menswear.”

This background shows that Klasmen Tekstil knows the market from both the producer's and the seller's point of view. The discipline of working for a foreign market also formed the basis of the company's later sensitivity about quality and standards.

2. THE MOVE FROM SUBCONTRACTING TO ITS OWN PRODUCTION PLANT

What would you like to say about Klasmen Tekstil's development since its founding?

“We can really date Klasmen's founding to our return to the sector in 2004. We started by having production done by subcontractors and only marketing it, and we mostly had work sewn for the Laleli market. Besides our own brands, ANTONI ZEEMAN and TORRES, we also began to meet demand from important domestic brands such as JAKAMEN.”

“As the number of places where we had work sewn grew, some problems appeared. It became very hard to keep consistency in quality and standard production. The attitude of our subcontracting workshops also made me determined, and in the end we decided to set up our own production workshop.”

“With the project we started in early 2014, thanks to a very professional staff, we reached a production capacity of 400-450 suits a day in much less time than planned. For us, who value quality and standards over quantity, this level is a serious success.”

The move from subcontracting to own production is also a turning point for suit ironing. In the subcontracting model, the product is pressed in different workshops, on different presses and by different hands; the same model can come back from two workshops with different looks.

A manufacturer that sets up its own pressing department can tie bucks, programs and operator training to a single standard.

3. 2013: PLANNED PREPARATION AND FEASIBILITY

A press application in the pressing department.

What was the situation of the sector and your company in 2013? Could you tell us a little about your investments?

“We can say the sector kept its stable course until then, while we as a company continued to grow. We had started preparations for our new production plant, which opened in early 2014, the year before.”

“In 2013 we carried out the infrastructure and feasibility work for purchasing the plant, equipment, machinery and fittings. We took our steps in a planned way, did not rush, and tried to do everything as well as our means allowed.”

“We did not pay much attention to the situation of the sector, because if you do your work well and put in the necessary effort, conditions do not affect you much.”

“I think the work ends first with ourselves as individuals, then as institutions. If everyone does their job well, there is no reason for the market to go badly.”

In a new plant, feasibility answers concrete questions for the suit ironing department as well. Which stations does the product range require, how many presses does the target capacity need, and how much steam and vacuum are needed? When the answers are settled before the building project, both the budget and the layout are set up correctly.

4. QUALITY PRIORITY AND THE LOCAL CHOICE IN THE MACHINE PARK

What do you pay attention to when investing in your machine park? What are the most important factors affecting your choice of new equipment?

“When choosing equipment and machinery, I first of all pay attention to quality. My principle is to look for the cheapest among the high-quality, not the high-quality among the cheap. At the same time, the suitability of the equipment for its purpose and the work to be done is very important.”

“My long years of market observation and experience have unfortunately shown me that many unnecessary machine purchases are made. And if possible, if there is a local alternative in that field, I prefer to buy local equipment.”

“In sewing machines we did not have the chance to make this choice, but in ironing machines the situation is different. We now have local brands that are known worldwide and have very high-quality products. We are among those who prefer to work with a local brand in ironing.”

In a suit ironing investment, this principle turns into measurable criteria: how well the buck fits the product, the flexibility of the program, access to service and spare parts, energy needs and ease of use for the operator.

The way to reduce the risk of “unnecessary machines” is to derive the station list from the product range and the capacity target. In this way, every press answers a specific product and capacity need.

5. WHY MALKAN MACHINERY FOR SUIT IRONING?

A view of the pressing department for buck and form compatibility.

What do you think about your choice of Malkan Machinery as a local brand for ironing equipment? Are you satisfied with Malkan Machinery?

“During the years I had production done by subcontractors, I had the chance to observe many kinds of ironing machines in many companies and to try different brands.”

“What I saw is this: in our work, especially on the jacket, pressing operations are the most critical and decisive part of the job. That is why the final pressing stage should be the apple of the eye of an apparel factory.”

“The most important element showing the work done is the ironing presses. We had known and followed Malkan Machinery from the market for a long time; I had seen its presses working in many places. The buck and form compatibility achieved on the presses is at a very good level.”

“It has a very professional team, knows every stage of production and produces exactly according to your needs. After-sales support services are at an advanced level. Besides the forms of the presses, their programming features are also advanced technology products.”

“It is as practical and simple to use for the operator as it is flexible enough to adapt easily to every kind of fabric. On ironing presses, because of buck incompatibility or inadequate programming, some of the craftsmanship done on the line can be wasted; that is, the press can spoil the work done.”

“We have not met such a problem with Malkan Machinery presses. On the contrary, you get pressing results that bring your craftsmanship even more to the fore; your product looks higher quality and more attractive. So we enjoy the satisfaction of having made the right choice.”

6. The Stages of the Suit Ironing Process

Suit ironing is not a single final pressing operation; it consists of intermediate pressing done at different points of production and the final pressing at the very end. In intermediate pressing, seam allowances are opened and details such as pockets and flaps are shaped. Fusing, in turn, gives the fabric body and form support.

In the final stage of suit ironing, the jacket is processed at stations divided into regions: sleeves, shoulders, collar and lapel, front panels, back and side sections. Each station works with its own buck and makes the three-dimensional form of its region permanent. On the trouser side, the waist, hip and leg crease are handled separately.

During suit ironing, the order of stations is planned so that the form given is not disturbed in the next step. The right order is set according to the model and the plant's line layout. The hanger and intermediate stock arrangement is also planned so that the pressed part does not wrinkle again.

The behavior of the fabric is the most sensitive variable of suit ironing. Wool fibers soften with heat and moisture and keep their new form through vacuum and cooling, while wool blends and synthetic-heavy fabrics react differently to heat. For this reason, separate steam, pressure and vacuum times are defined for each fabric group.

7. THE EFFECT OF BUCK-FORM COMPATIBILITY AND PROGRAMMING ON CRAFTSMANSHIP

Utility infrastructure of the pressing department in the new plant.

As emphasized in the interview, buck incompatibility can waste the craftsmanship carefully done on the line at final pressing.

When the buck does not carry the jacket's shoulder slope, chest fullness and collar line correctly, the press imprints this difference on the fabric; the result is waviness, shrinkage or asymmetry. Suit ironing quality therefore begins with how well the buck fits the product.

Buck covering also affects the result. Covering layers spread the pressure and let steam and vacuum reach the fabric evenly, while a worn covering can leave shine and marks. Regular checks and renewal when necessary are the most economical way of protecting suit ironing quality.

Programming makes the form provided by the buck repeatable. When steam, pressure, vacuum and cooling times are stored in recorded programs for each product and fabric, the operator only selects the right program. The ease of use and fabric adaptability stressed by the Klasmen Tekstil representative express exactly this flexibility in the suit ironing process.

When a new fabric or model arrives, the program is verified by trying it on sample pieces. Form, shine, seam marks and dimensional change are checked, and the approved values are recorded and transferred to production. This method moves trial and error in suit ironing from the production line to a controlled preliminary stage.

8. A QUALITY TEAM AND STABILITY IN PRODUCTION

What were your expectations for the sector and your company in 2014?

“This year is being experienced as an election year in Türkiye. For this reason I cannot foresee much change for the sector compared with last year. We are again minding our own business this year and working on how we can do better.”

“We aim to develop our staff and production team in both quantity and quality; now is the time to invest in staff. Quality production depends on having a well-trained and high-quality team as much as on quality equipment. This also brings stability to production.”

“To be able to produce at the same capacity and quality level continuously, you need a very good team. In this way we take the first step toward marketing our own brand ourselves. Then we continue moving toward our goals of high value-added products and increasing exports.”

These goals expressed in the interview belong to 2014. Investment in the team takes concrete form in the suit ironing department through standard work instructions, station-based operator training, quality control points and defect records.

Placing the product on the buck correctly, selecting the right program and noticing a defect at once directly determine suit ironing results. When a trained team and the right equipment are considered together, capacity can be increased without compromising quality.

9. UTILITY INFRASTRUCTURE OF THE PRESSING DEPARTMENT IN THE NEW PLANT

The quality control stage after final pressing.

A suit ironing line is a whole with steam, vacuum, compressed air and electrical infrastructure. The steam source is sized according to the simultaneous consumption of all stations, the lines are insulated and condensate is drained regularly.

The safe operation of steam boilers is also an integral part of this planning. Dry steam reaching the presses reduces the risk of water spots and uneven moisture.

Vacuum and compressed air for suit ironing are planned with the same care. While vacuum draws moisture and heat out of the fabric and fixes the form, dry and clean compressed air ensures the buck movements of the presses safely.

The line layout is set so that the product travels the shortest way from sewing exit to final pressing and quality control. A pressing department made up of presses, tables and utilities can also be arranged as a turnkey finishing line.

The planned feasibility approach that Klasmen Tekstil carried out in 2013 applies to the suit ironing infrastructure as well. When infrastructure is planned together with the building project, costly changes made later are avoided. This also makes it easier for the new plant to reach its target capacity in a short time.

The target of 400-450 suits a day is a calculable pace for the suit ironing department as well. As an example calculation, 450 suits in a single nine-hour shift means one suit about every 72 seconds. Stations whose processing time per product exceeds this pace are supported with parallel presses, so no bottleneck forms at final pressing.

10. THE EFFECT OF INTERMEDIATE PRESSING, INTERLINING AND CANVAS SHAPING ON FINAL PRESSING

Suit ironing quality begins long before final pressing. The interlining fused to the front panels of the jacket gives the fabric body; wrong temperature, pressure or time can cause bubbling, stiffening or adhesive bleeding through to the surface. The values recommended by the interlining manufacturer are taken as a starting point and verified with trial pieces.

In classic jacket making, the hair canvas in the front section is fused in a separate operation, while canvas shaping (sadafodra) is the shaping of the canvas in the front section of the jacket.

These two operations cannot replace each other, and each directly affects the chest and lapel form of the jacket. These steps prepare the ground for the form to be given in the final stage of suit ironing.

Seam-opening intermediate pressing ensures that sleeve, side and back seams are opened flat and without marks.

A step skipped or done incompletely in intermediate pressing cannot be made up for in final pressing; an unopened seam allowance remains on the surface as a mark and bulge. For this reason, the suit ironing plan must cover intermediate pressing stations as well.

11. COMMON PRESSING DEFECTS IN SUITS AND THEIR SOLUTIONS

Shine is the most common defect in suit ironing, especially on dark wool suit fabrics. Excessive temperature, too much pressure or a worn covering crushes the fiber surface and makes the fabric reflect light differently. Pressure and time are lowered to suit the fabric, the covering is renewed and suitable protective surfaces are used on sensitive fabrics.

Waviness on the lapel and collar line in suit ironing mostly comes from interlining incompatibility or a collar buck that does not fit the product exactly.

Loss of form at the shoulder is a sign of insufficient vacuum and cooling; the product loses its shape on the hanger within a few hours. In both cases, the solution is a buck check and re-verification of program times.

Pocket and seam marks occur when the pocket bag or seam allowance on the front panel shows through to the surface. A flexible and sound buck covering and pressure suited to the fabric prevent this mark.

Recording defects by station on a suit ironing line makes it possible to find the source of a problem quickly and produce a lasting solution.

Water spots and uneven moisture seen during suit ironing come from wet steam or insufficient vacuum. Checking condensate drainage and insulating the steam line reduce this risk. When quality control evaluates the product after it has waited on the hanger for a while, form durability is also measured correctly.

12. QUALITY CONTROL AFTER FINAL PRESSING AND PREPARATION FOR SHIPMENT

Jackets and trousers coming out of suit ironing are evaluated at the quality control point both visually and dimensionally. Visual control examines shine, marks, waves and symmetry; dimensional control examines critical measurements such as collar, shoulder and sleeve length. A dimensional change seen after pressing gives early warning of fabric shrinkage or excessive stretching.

A defect found in inspection is fed back to the relevant station and program. The faster this feedback loop works on a suit ironing line, the earlier a repeating error is stopped. A weekly review of defect types creates a priority list for buck maintenance and operator training.

The approved product is hung on a suitable hanger so that it keeps its form, and packed with a protective cover if needed.

A product that is compressed or folded right after pressing can wrinkle because of the remaining moisture; for this reason, it is left to cool and dry completely. In this way, the effort put into suit ironing reaches the store shelf at the same quality.

13. CONCLUSION

Klasmen Tekstil put quality and standards at the center as it moved from subcontracting to its own production; the plant that opened in early 2014 reached a capacity of 400-450 suits a day in a short time. The company's local choice in the pressing department showed that buck-form compatibility, programming and after-sales support are decisive in suit ironing.

The principle of “looking for the cheapest among the high-quality” offers a sound roadmap for investment in suit ironing machinery: equipment is chosen to suit its purpose, unnecessary purchases are avoided and local alternatives are considered where they exist.

With the experience it has accumulated since 1971 and an export network reaching 95 countries, Malkan Machinery stands beside manufacturers who share this approach.

Today, Malkan Machinery also works in a strategic partnership with Indupress in press technology. Developments in garment production automation also shape how investments in pressing departments are planned. For the company's current strategy, you can browse the Malkan Vision 2025-2026 page.

14. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What stages does suit ironing consist of? It consists of intermediate pressing, fusing and final pressing. Seam allowances are opened and details are shaped in intermediate pressing; in final pressing the jacket and trousers are formed region by region at stations.

What problems does buck incompatibility cause in suit ironing? An incompatible buck can cause waviness, shrinkage, asymmetry, shine and seam marks. In that case, the craftsmanship carefully done on the line is spoiled at final pressing.

How does moving from subcontracting to own production affect suit ironing quality? A manufacturer that sets up its own pressing department ties bucks, programs and operator training to a single standard. In this way the same model comes out with the same look in every batch.

What do programmed presses give the operator? Steam, pressure, vacuum and cooling times are applied through a recorded program. The operator selects the right program, and results become consistent regardless of shift and person.

When should suit ironing utilities in a new plant be planned? They should be planned at the same time as the building project. When steam, vacuum, compressed air and electrical lines are sized correctly from the start, costly later changes are avoided.

How can suit ironing defects be reduced? Buck fit to the product is checked, program times are verified for the fabric and the covering is renewed regularly. Recording defects by station helps find the source quickly.

Why should a pressed suit not be packed right away? A product coming out of pressing still carries moisture and heat. If it is folded or compressed before it cools and dries completely, it can wrinkle and lose its form; so it is first left on a suitable hanger.