Founded in 1922 as a small shop in Berlin, Germany, Roy Robson is among the menswear brands best known in Europe. The brand started its production investment in Türkiye in 2008 and has kept growing it in the Aegean Free Zone in Izmir.

The company, which doubled its production capacity in about five years, planned to put an additional building next to the factory into operation during 2014.

In the interview, Timur Sengezer, the company’s CEO for Türkiye, explained that Malkan Machinery products were chosen for the third production line as well. According to Sengezer, the reasons were technical competence, buck compatibility, programming capability and after-sales support. Another factor was the high investment cost of German-brand ironing equipment under Türkiye’s conditions.

This article covers Roy Robson’s experience together with the technical evaluation process a suit factory follows when choosing ironing equipment. Topics such as feasibility, sample tests, capacity increase, buck revision and training support are a guide for any manufacturer planning a similar investment.

1. ROY ROBSON AND ITS PRODUCTION BASE IN IZMIR

The pressing department in menswear production.

Roy Robson collections offer a lifestyle and fashion for business and everyday wear, developed at the headquarters in Luneburg, Germany. In the product management and design departments, special attention is paid to how products are prepared, to workmanship and to quality in the patterns. Only high-quality fabrics prepared by select and well-known fabric companies are used in production.

According to Sengezer, at the time of the interview Roy Robson’s worldwide production network had a total of 7,300 employees and 1,153 points of sale. Products made in Türkiye were exported to 42 countries, notably Poland, Germany, Bulgaria and the Far East. The Izmir factory employed 650 people.

The company’s production sites were spread mainly across Eastern Europe and the Balkan countries. Sengezer points to Türkiye’s long-standing garment infrastructure and workmanship quality, and says that labor costs more favorable than in European countries also played a part in the choice. He describes Izmir as “tailor-made” for suit production.

With the additional factory investment in 2014, the number of employees was expected to rise to 850-900. A shirt production project had initially been considered for the new factory. However, finding production in Türkiye of higher quality than in factories in other countries led senior management to take a strategic decision to increase suit capacity.

2. Why Is Ironing Equipment a Critical Investment Item?

In suit production, ironing equipment consists of the machines that determine a product’s final look and form. The shoulder line, collar roll and chest form of a jacket and the leg line of trousers take shape largely on presses, ironing benches and bucks. The labor put into stitching turns into value only with correct pressing.

In suit production, ironing equipment is considered in three main groups: intermediate pressing benches and presses, final presses that work by area of the jacket and trousers, and the steam, vacuum and compressed air infrastructure. In intermediate pressing, seams are opened and interlining is fused; in final pressing, the product takes its final form.

This group of ironing equipment is among the high-value investment items in a garment factory. In Sengezer’s words, German-brand machines, ironing equipment in particular, meant very expensive investments under Türkiye’s conditions. Combined with the tendency of large European companies to have their own country’s equipment used when they place production outside, the decision became harder still.

When ironing equipment is chosen, not only the price of the machine but the whole cost of ownership is assessed.

Energy and steam consumption, buck changeover time, maintenance needs, access to spare parts and service speed can become more decisive than the purchase price over the years. The right choice also reduces the need for reinvestment when capacity grows.

In a brand working to high quality standards, ironing equipment is also part of quality assurance. The same form and the same surface appearance must be achieved on every line, every shift and every batch. This repeatability depends on the machine’s programming capability and buck compatibility.

3. CONVINCING A GERMAN BRAND: FEASIBILITY AND TECHNICAL APPROVAL PROCESS

Press and buck review in the technical approval process.

Timur Sengezer, who was born and raised in Germany and completed his education there, is by profession an electronics, mechanical and PLC programming engineer.

Because of his passion for fashion, he trained himself in the garment and ready-to-wear sector and served as a manager in many apparel companies. Originally from Izmir, Sengezer began his business life in Türkiye in 1999 at Hugo Boss, a famous German apparel brand.

Sengezer worked as a manager at that company until the end of 2003, then left and founded his own consulting companies. In 2008 he brought Roy Robson to Türkiye and convinced the brand to produce here. At the time of the interview, he was serving as Roy Robson’s CEO for Türkiye.

Sengezer describes Roy Robson as a firm more than 90 years old, deeply rooted and conservative.

For a brand with high quality standards in materials and workmanship, accepting a domestic brand in place of the German-brand irons it had been used to in its other factories for years was not easy. A feasibility study spread over 2-3 years was carried out before production began in 2008.

During this period, Roy Robson insisted on choosing the German brands used in its other factories for ironing equipment.

Sengezer, however, trusted Malkan Machinery, which he had known for a long time and whose successful work he had closely witnessed. He was sure the brand’s representatives would feel the same trust once they saw it with their own eyes.

For this purpose, a team made up of Roy Robson’s quality manager, pattern maker and technical manager made a series of visits to Malkan Machinery over 6 months. The technical competence of many critical presses, such as form and programming, was examined. In the end, Roy Robson gave its technical approval for Malkan Machinery ironing equipment.

According to Sengezer, there was no problem financially anyway. All that remained was to trust that the success obtained in tests and sample work would also be shown in the ordered products. Sengezer says Malkan Machinery did not disappoint this trust.

The question Sengezer recalls from the persuasion process was simple: why choose the more expensive option when there is one of the same quality at a more favorable cost? In his view, the ironing equipment Malkan Machinery produces answered this question in the field with its high technological level and buck compatibility.

4. WHAT IS EXAMINED IN A TECHNICAL EVALUATION?

The path Roy Robson followed offers a model that any manufacturer choosing ironing equipment can apply. The evaluation rests on inspections carried out at the supplier’s facility on real products. Catalog information alone is not considered sufficient.

Form competence comes first. Whether the press buck gives the form suited to the brand’s pattern and model line is tested on the brand’s own fabrics and sizes. In critical areas such as the shoulder, collar and chest, form, marks and shine are checked separately.

Programming competence is the second heading. The durations of steam, pressure, vacuum and buck movements must be definable for each model and fabric, recorded, and give the same result when the operator changes. The technical team observes how easily programs are adjusted and how quickly a new fabric can be adapted.

Sample and series consistency is the third heading. The result reached in the sample must be kept at series production pace and over long shifts. The evaluation is therefore concluded not with a single successful product but with repeated trials.

The last heading is the supplier’s engineering and service capacity. Buck production, revision speed, spare parts stock and training capability are assessed together so that ironing equipment works at the same performance in the factory for years. The 6-month visits of the Roy Robson team allowed these headings to be assessed by seeing them in the field.

5. DOUBLING CAPACITY: FROM 650 TO 1,300 SUITS

New line and pressing stations as capacity grows.

Roy Robson began production in Izmir in 2008 with a capacity of 650 suits a day. At the time of the interview, daily production had reached 1,300 suits and the target was to raise this number to 2,000. Sengezer underlines that the quality level in hand must not be compromised on the way to this target.

According to Sengezer, the most important thing that encouraged them in setting the target was the cooperation with Malkan Machinery. The capacity increase continued with the setup of new lines. On the third production line being set up, Malkan Machinery ironing equipment was again gladly chosen.

When a new line is set up, the most important principle for ironing equipment is standardization. Using the same model and buck structure allows programs to be shared between lines, operators to move between lines and the spare parts stock to be kept simple. This way every line turns out the same product at the same quality.

A capacity increase also affects the infrastructure. Steam generation, condensate removal, vacuum and compressed air capacity are recalculated for the consumption of the new line. In an investment with an additional building planned, doing this calculation together with the building project keeps later changes to a minimum.

Bottleneck analysis is also part of capacity planning. If the pressing stations cannot match the speed when the sewing line speeds up, products wait and in-process stock grows. Ironing equipment is therefore sized according to the line’s real output speed.

In a production of 1,300 suits a day, the number of pressing stations is calculated from the cycle time per product of each station and the shift length.

Because there are separate station groups for jackets and trousers, the capacity of the two groups is balanced so that neither waits for the other. Buck and program changeover time at model changes is added to this calculation.

6. FAST ADAPTATION TO FASHION TRENDS: BUCK REVISION

In menswear, fashion trends change often. Shoulder width, collar form, jacket length and pattern line may differ every season. These changes require the bucks on the ironing equipment to be updated as well.

Sengezer says Malkan Machinery carried out the buck revisions and updates needed to adapt models to fast-changing fashion trends in a very short time and successfully. In his view, this capability was one of the most important elements of the cooperation. New season models could be put on the lines without disrupting the production calendar.

Buck revision is the pressing-side counterpart of a model change. The buck form is evaluated on the new model’s sample; if needed, the buck is reshaped or a new one is made, and covering materials are chosen according to the fabric. Program durations are then verified with a trial pressing.

For buck covering, layers such as sponge, silicone and fabric are used in the sector; these layers spread the pressure and let steam reach the fabric evenly. Since a worn cover can leave shine and marks, model changes are a good opportunity to review the cover as well.

Designing the buck by a team in the same country as the user and speaking the same language speeds up this cycle.

The shorter the time between trial, correction and delivery steps, the faster the new model reaches the lines. For brands whose product range changes often, this flexibility in ironing equipment is as important a selection criterion as price.

7. ELECTRO-PNEUMATIC COMPONENTS AND PROGRAMMING

Programmable presses and component quality.

Looking at the subject with a technical eye thanks to his engineering background, Sengezer stresses that Malkan Machinery uses high-quality, world-renowned electro-pneumatic components in its products. The quality of valves, cylinders and control elements determines whether the press works with the same precision for years. Component selection is therefore examined separately when ironing equipment is evaluated.

On ironing presses, buck movements are generally provided by pneumatic systems that run on compressed air. The life of these systems depends on the air being dry and clean; a dryer and filter are therefore integral parts of the installation. Electro-pneumatic valves convert commands from the control unit into buck movement.

A PLC, or programmable logic controller, manages steam, pressure, vacuum and buck movements in defined sequences and durations. Sengezer says the programming capability of the machines lets them reach quality easily and minimize process times. Programmable ironing equipment allows a verified recipe for each model to stay on record.

A shorter process time translates directly into capacity targets. A few seconds gained on each cycle makes a significant capacity difference in a factory making thousands of products a day. However, the shorter time must be achieved without giving up the result verified in quality control.

8. TURNKEY SERVICE, TRAINING AND AFTER-SALES SUPPORT

Sengezer explains that Malkan Machinery’s qualified engineers and technicians made it much easier for them to turn their targets into reality. In his view, when the turnkey service approach, comprehensive training support and the after-sales services the modern world requires came together, there was no need to look for another alternative.

In the turnkey approach, the pressing department is planned as a whole together with ironing equipment: presses, benches, bucks and installation. The layout of the machines, steam and vacuum lines, and compressed air and electrical connections are handled in a single project. This approach prevents loss of coordination between different suppliers.

Training is the invisible but decisive item of an ironing equipment investment. The operator placing the product on the buck correctly, choosing the right program and noticing a defect at once directly affect quality. When the maintenance team takes over daily checks and simple adjustments, downtime is shortened.

When a new line is set up, moving some of the experienced operators to the new line transfers knowledge quickly. Standardized ironing equipment makes this move easier; the operator continues working with the same machine and the same program logic. The new team completes its training at real production pace.

After-sales support gains even more importance in periods when new lines are being set up. While a new line is commissioned, production on existing lines continues; the technical team must be able to manage both the installation and support for the existing line at the same time.

Roy Robson working with the same ironing equipment supplier on all three lines is a result of this continuity.

Malkan Machinery’s German strategic partner Indupress and its integrated approach to the pressing department are also introduced separately on the site.

The approach to customer satisfaction is explained in Malkan Machinery’s customer satisfaction policy.

9. POST-PRESSING QUALITY CONTROL AND BRAND STANDARDS

According to Sengezer, all employees at Roy Robson’s production centers ensure that quality standards are kept in suits and jackets. The most visible point of this responsibility is quality control after pressing. This is where the product is evaluated one last time before reaching the customer.

In post-pressing inspection, measurement deviation, symmetry, shine, marks, water stains and loss of form are examined. The two lapels and two shoulders of a jacket having the same form, and the leg line of trousers forming a single straight line, are basic checkpoints.

These checks show whether the form given by the ironing equipment is also kept on the hanger and in transport.

In series production, inspection is generally done with sampling plans. In the acceptable quality level (AQL) approach, a certain number of products is selected from the lot and the lot is accepted or rejected according to the number of defects found; sampling principles are defined in the ISO 2859-1 standard.

The inspection level and acceptance limits are set between the brand and the manufacturer.

The source of a defect found in inspection is traced backward. If the problem is in pressing, program durations or buck covering are corrected; if it is in sewing, feedback is given to the relevant operation. Program records on the ironing equipment allow this tracing to be done quickly.

Keeping defect records in order is the basis of continuous improvement. When it is seen which defect repeats on which model, fabric and station, buck revision and program updates are made on the basis of data. This approach helps keep the quality level as capacity grows.

Malkan Machinery’s quality policy and quality certificates are the corporate counterpart of the standards discipline brands expect; this discipline was also recognized in 2013 with the TSE quality award.

10. IZMIR’S SUIT TRADITION AND THE EFFECT OF DOMESTIC EQUIPMENT

Sengezer says Izmir has a very important history and serious human resource potential in suit production. He says they have had little trouble finding well-trained staff in the city. In Izmir there are many companies doing subcontract production for world-famous apparel brands.

According to Sengezer, Roy Robson’s choice of Malkan Machinery, a domestic brand, for its ironing equipment led other manufacturers in the city to work with Malkan Machinery on their new investments too.

Roy Robson thus became a reference for these companies. Sengezer stresses that, in this way, foreign currency that had gone for years to machine imports stayed in the country, and that this was a service to the homeland.

In the field, using domestic ironing equipment means fast access. The producer and the user speaking the same language and the factory being reachable in a short time speed up buck adaptation, service and spare parts supply. This reduces the workload that builds up on the line and the risk of downtime.

Sengezer stated that the company works for 100 percent export and is therefore hardly affected by periodic difficulties in the domestic market.

At the time of the interview, Türkiye was facing a period of three elections within about a year and a half. Sengezer said he hoped economic circles would preserve stability during this period and that planned investments would continue without slowing down.

This approach also finds its counterpart in Malkan Machinery’s values: people first, then machines.

11. CONCLUSION

Roy Robson’s Izmir experience shows that a German brand with high quality standards chose to work with domestic ironing equipment after a technical evaluation. The cooperation, which began with a feasibility study of 2-3 years and technical reviews lasting 6 months, continued with the third line in the period when daily capacity rose from 650 to 1,300 suits.

The elements that stand out in this experience are form and programming competence, fast buck revision, quality electro-pneumatic components, turnkey service and training support. With the experience accumulated since 1971 and an export network reaching 95 countries, Malkan Machinery stands by manufacturers who choose ironing equipment to build and grow their pressing departments.

12. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Which tests should be done when choosing ironing equipment? Presses are tried on the brand’s own fabric, size and model. Form, marks, shine and programming competence are checked; the result is verified with repeated trials.

What did Roy Robson examine in the technical approval process? A team of the quality manager, pattern maker and technical manager examined the form and programming competence of critical presses for 6 months. Test and sample work followed.

How is a new line of ironing equipment planned when capacity grows? Lines are standardized by using the same model and buck structure. Steam, vacuum, compressed air and electrical capacity are recalculated for the consumption of the new line.

Why is buck revision important for ironing equipment? As fashion trends change, shoulder, collar and jacket form change too. Fast buck revision lets new models be put on the lines without disrupting the production calendar.

How does PLC-controlled ironing equipment contribute to quality? A PLC applies steam, pressure and vacuum durations through a stored program. So even when the operator or shift changes, the product is pressed to the same standard and process times are shortened.

What is the advantage of using domestic ironing equipment? Buck adaptation, service and spare parts supply are faster. A technical team speaking the same language shortens the process in model changes and new line setups.

What is checked in quality control after pressing? Measurement deviation, symmetry, shine, marks, water stains and loss of form are examined. In series production, inspection is mostly done with a sampling plan; the brand and the manufacturer set the acceptance limits together.